With a philosophy of “purity, provenance, and precision,” Head Chef Shimpei Raikuni is steering the newly expanded Sushi Room in Fortitude Valley through a menu that has garnered national praise and local buzz for its quality.
The Velvet Rope and the Noren Curtain
Following a recent expansion, the Japanese fine diner at the base of The Calile Hotel has grown from a 60-seat venue to a 100-seat establishment. The new space, designed by architects Richards and Spence, adds a striking bar, a small lounge, and footpath seating on Doggett Street. The design presents a study in contrasts. Guests first encounter a stark and steely environment of grey and white marble on the floors, bar, and tables, which some find cool in its modernism.
Yet, deeper inside, the atmosphere shifts to what has been described as darkly seductive and intimate, centred around a stunning 9.3-metre sushi bar made of Hinoki timber. This allows diners to choose their experience, from watching chefs at the bar to seeking privacy in a curved booth or an exclusive mezzanine dining room.
A Menu for Moguls and Locals
Under the direction of Head Chef Shimpei Raikuni, the culinary approach focuses on purity, provenance, and precision with a menu built around fine seasonal Australian seafood. This philosophy caters to two very different budgets. On one hand, the restaurant serves a clientele that includes visiting celebrities, offering a premium omakase where the chef curates the meal, or à la carte selections where a single piece of Kagoshima sirloin nigiri costs $33.
However, the restaurant also provides a more accessible path to its high-end offerings. A $65 lunch set special has become a popular choice, including a chef’s selection of sashimi and nigiri, a choice of wagyu steak or king salmon, a mixed leaf salad, and miso soup. This deal makes the lauded quality of the kitchen available without the top-tier price tag.
The Devil in the Details
Regardless of the price paid, the quality of the food receives high praise. Reviewers have noted the exceptional freshness of the sashimi and the remarkable skill in dishes like the tamago, or Japanese omelet. The spicy tuna crispy rice is consistently highlighted as a signature dish that should not be missed.
The praise is not without balance; some diners have found the sushi rice a bit loose, making it tricky to eat, while others noted the premium A5 wagyu could be overly rich for some tastes. For those enjoying a drink, a helpful piece of advice is to check the wine list carefully. The restaurant offers both 75ml and 150ml pours, and the listed price may be for the smaller glass, which could lead to a surprise on the final bill.
Published Date 29-July-2025
